Ignition – Done!

So, we are there, Nodiz is now controlling the ignition system on my car.

And here’s how;

Installing the Advance Table

I decided that before any major stuff begins, I should connect to the Nodiz module via Bluetooth and set it up.

Using my Apple MacBook – running Windows 10 in a VM (VMWare Fusion)  it was initially a bit of a struggle getting the onboard Bluetooth radio to work through Win10. I ended up disabling Bluetooth, and using the plug-in USB dongle that is kindly provided with the Nodiz passing it straight through to Windows via VMWare.

After connecting the unit to the battery, I was able to communicate using the software from Motorsport Electronics. I loaded the advance table from their forums, then told the ECU that engine load information will be provided by a Cosworth 3-bar MAP sensor rather than Throttle Position Sensor. It all seemed happy the Advance Table was written to the onboard memory.

Matt from Nodiz explains this HERE.

With this job done, the time had come to get on with the real work.

Removing Megajolt/EDIS

This part was simple, 4 self-tapping screws had been used held these units to the scuttle panel (2 in each) and the wiring harness only linked into the car in 3 places (ignition live feed, ground (earth), and tacho) then 2 terminated plugs went to the coil pack and crank position sensor.

Engine bay with Megajolt

Units removed from scuttle
New Nodiz with MAP sensor (left) and Old MegaJolt with EDIS (right)
Installing Nodiz
I offered up the new wiring harness and decided where to place the new components, the Nodiz is secured with Velcro tape so can go anywhere, but the MAP sensor is a bolt on part, I used the self-tapping bolts that used to retain the Megajolt/EDIS to mount the sensor on the scuttle panel. The new cabling was then connected to the car harness in the same points as the Megajolt (live, ground, tacho).
I turned the key and the car started 1st time – wonderful.
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A much more elegant solution
Although the car ran very well, the tacho (rev counter) wasn’t working. After a lot of looking around forums etc. about this issue, I boiled it down to 3 options; 
  1. Fit a ‘pull-up’ resistor to the connections at the back of the gauge
  2. Fit a diode coil driver pack to the ignition coils and use that to drive the tacho
  3. Do both 1 and 2

I ordered both parts online and got around to making the tacho work this weekend – removing the VDO tacho I soldered a 1 ohm resistor between the 12v feed and the RPM signal wires (pins 2 and 4).

Resistor in place
I started the car, and, to my surprise it worked perfectly. In summary; The engine now runs very cleanly and pulls very hard – with a working rev-counter.
I’m Delighted..,

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