Tag: Ignition

A Few Things…

Additional work has been completed since the suspension rebuild, none worthy of a single blog post, but here goes;

Front Springs

After I had replaced the rear springs as (see the previous post), It can only help to replace the front rusty, flaky ones too. I picked some 250lb  springs up from Protech then, it was a simple job; remove the retaining bolts – viciously cut off the old springs with an angle grinder, then slip on the new (shorter) springs and re-installing. The ride height was matched side to side but needs another look as the whole car seems a bit low.

After a couple of drives with the new springs – the car bucked around a little when on bumpy surfaces – so I clicked the dampers down one level all-around. 
MAP Sensor Damper
When completing the Ignition system a couple of years back, a Danst Engineering damper was added to smooth out the pulses created by the intake system and provide a good reading to the MAP sensor. I fitted it below the inlet manifold sort of hanging on the vacuum lines. Then after watching a youtube video from Japan about a Toyota AE86, and seeing a nice setup, I decided to copy it. Basically, the damper was moved to the edge of the cam cover fastened by p-clips and plumbed in with fresh silicone hoses.
Look, I’ve added an arrow to help you spot it!

More Wheels
When I got my current tyres fitted (Nankang NS2R), the man in the workshop noted that one rear wheel had hit something pretty hard and dented the OSR wheel rim (inside and out) – this presents itself as a rumble at higher speeds. 
This gave me an excuse to find more wheels (again) after waiting and watching I found some 13inch Minilite replicas (these cars are supposed to handle better on 13’s) I collected them and got them on – the car feels lighter on its toes and I think they look great!
I’ll probably go back to the 15inch wheels for another year or so to wear the tyres out, then get some new 13inch tyres and switch to these full time.

Ignition – Done!

So, we are there, Nodiz is now controlling the ignition system on my car.

And here’s how;

Installing the Advance Table

I decided that before any major stuff begins, I should connect to the Nodiz module via Bluetooth and set it up.

Using my Apple MacBook – running Windows 10 in a VM (VMWare Fusion)  it was initially a bit of a struggle getting the onboard Bluetooth radio to work through Win10. I ended up disabling Bluetooth, and using the plug-in USB dongle that is kindly provided with the Nodiz passing it straight through to Windows via VMWare.

After connecting the unit to the battery, I was able to communicate using the software from Motorsport Electronics. I loaded the advance table from their forums, then told the ECU that engine load information will be provided by a Cosworth 3-bar MAP sensor rather than Throttle Position Sensor. It all seemed happy the Advance Table was written to the onboard memory.

Matt from Nodiz explains this HERE.

With this job done, the time had come to get on with the real work.

Removing Megajolt/EDIS

This part was simple, 4 self-tapping screws had been used held these units to the scuttle panel (2 in each) and the wiring harness only linked into the car in 3 places (ignition live feed, ground (earth), and tacho) then 2 terminated plugs went to the coil pack and crank position sensor.

Engine bay with Megajolt

Units removed from scuttle
New Nodiz with MAP sensor (left) and Old MegaJolt with EDIS (right)
Installing Nodiz
I offered up the new wiring harness and decided where to place the new components, the Nodiz is secured with Velcro tape so can go anywhere, but the MAP sensor is a bolt on part, I used the self-tapping bolts that used to retain the Megajolt/EDIS to mount the sensor on the scuttle panel. The new cabling was then connected to the car harness in the same points as the Megajolt (live, ground, tacho).
I turned the key and the car started 1st time – wonderful.
,
A much more elegant solution
Although the car ran very well, the tacho (rev counter) wasn’t working. After a lot of looking around forums etc. about this issue, I boiled it down to 3 options; 
  1. Fit a ‘pull-up’ resistor to the connections at the back of the gauge
  2. Fit a diode coil driver pack to the ignition coils and use that to drive the tacho
  3. Do both 1 and 2

I ordered both parts online and got around to making the tacho work this weekend – removing the VDO tacho I soldered a 1 ohm resistor between the 12v feed and the RPM signal wires (pins 2 and 4).

Resistor in place
I started the car, and, to my surprise it worked perfectly. In summary; The engine now runs very cleanly and pulls very hard – with a working rev-counter.
I’m Delighted..,

Headlights, Dampers and Mapping…

I took a drive out the other evening,

a) It gave me a chance to use the Half-hood – which worked a treat. It does however ‘bellow’ up when driving a higher speeds. I think that after this I should be able to tighten it down further.

b)  got to film my trip using an SJ4000 (cheap GoPro knock off). I sampled it down to 720p using handbrake, then performed and edit with iMovie, see below;

c) A stone popped up and hit my headlamp and smashed it. So on Friday, I received my nice new Dominator style lights from Furore Products. Fitted them on Saturday, proved pretty simple, but I’m not fully happy with the fact that the mounting hole had been drilled pretty big, so I’m going to make a little adaption plate/washer device at the weekend. So far though, I love them and think they look great. I’ll post pictures of the little brackets after I’ve made them.

Dampers
I have for a while been thinking that there was something a bit off with the suspension, predominately at the rear. I have now narrowed this down to the 15-year-old SPAX dampers. Whether at setting 1 or setting 12 the rear end still crashes and bounces about.
My remedy to this is to order a set of alloy bodied Protech Dampers from Westfield. I’m hoping to have these for next weekend so that I can get them on.
Ignition Map
The car feels so so so much better when driving, but there still is a bit of spluttering and holding back at WOT when using low/mid revs. So also at the weekend, I’m going to try a few more maps, built with consideration as to how well the car feels now at cruise / mid throttle.