Tag: Replace

Running Repairs – Fuel Pump and Rear Brake Overhaul

While travelling to and taking part in a parade lap at The Silverstone Classic this summer I had a couple of odd incidents.

  • While passing travelling across country, the car cut out and coasted to a stop – restarting after maybe 20 seconds.
  • While on the parade lap at Silverstone the fuel pump (just behind my seat) went crazy – knocking and clattering away.

Knowing that I already had a spare fuel pump ‘in stock’ I decided that would be a good 1st step towards fixing the issue.

The job was a simple one, but included removal and refitting of the drivers seat to gain good access to the retaining bolts.



Since replacing the pump, the car has had zero problems – and I’m considering it fixed. In fact, the car feels like runs even better, especially at mid-high revs, maybe the old pump had been on its way out for a while.
I also took some time to pay attention to the rear brakes, the handbrake was more-or-less ineffective and, when attempting to bleed the rear brakes at the time of wishbone replacement, I could not undo the bleed nipple.
This turned out pretty time consuming, but easy. I replaced both rear wheel cylinders for the drum brakes and took some care to adjust the (supposedly automatically adjusting) handbrake.
I then re-bled the entire braking system.
The result of this is.
  • The handbrake works without pulling it up to the sky.
  • The car is much more stable under braking.

Upon removal, the old wheel cylinders felt as if notches were worn into the bore, and, my guess is – doing nothing in particular.

We Got There – A Long Post…

Hi Again

Well, the engine is in;

it was a pretty simple process, which we (my son and I) could have done in a day!

Instead, it took 3 Days.

Day 1

Removed the old engine, cleaned up some rusty looking areas of chassis in the engine bay and painted them with Kurust and Hammerite.

Day 2

Cleaned and painted the left-hand engine mount for the same reason, checked and re-worked some of the alternator wiring – many because all of the wire going there was yellow and had baffled me.

Collected the Race Sump from Dunnell and fitted it to the new engine. I wish I’d taken a few photos of it. The alloy welding is masterful.

They provide 4 new main bearing bolts with studs attached to retain the (also included) new windage tray. The modified oil pickup pipe fits perfectly too.

The (almost new looking) clutch was removed from the old engine and fitted to the new along with a new spigot/pilot bearing.

Day 3

The new engine went in just fine took around 4 hours. and when filled with some lovely Castrol maganatec and fresh coolant (surprisingly) it started first time – thumbs up.

My son and I took the car for a short spin after checking for leaks etc, and it coughed and spluttered like crazy when pushed a bit, but run like a dream at part throttle.

Since then I have spent a few days learning about what may be the cause;
My feelings were that with the old engine it had an air leak central and that the carbs had been fiddled with to get the engine to run ok-ish with an air leak.
That the for some reason the ignition timing set in the Megajolt system had been fiddled with to get the old air leaky engine to run ok-ish.
I wasn’t so confident about stripping the ZX9R Carburettors, so I read a lot of forum posts and articles about ignition mapping and thought i’d check that out.
The map that was loaded to the car looked like one for a Turbo engine as the MAP sensor pressure load scale went to 220Kpa. I got the standard Zetec base map that is provided by Autosport Labs, and committed it to the car. The engine ran far better, but still popped through the carbs and was misfiring at high RPM.
I read even more articles and forum posts about ignition maps and found a new map on a USA 7s forum. The guy mentioned that it was for a std Zetec on carbs and that he had spent ages honing it to its current state.
I took this map and adapted it into the Megajolt 10×10 grid (along with 3 others I found online).
Tonight I loaded this map, it was the 2nd one that i tried and, wow what a difference, you can drive the car around town on low throttle and in a cruise and it works beautifully.
Also it goes like a steam train at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). But I still cannot just jump onto the throttle, if I do, from low revs the engine can still cough an hesitate a little.
Here’s how i drove about:
Anyway all is well, i’ll be back soon with more Westfield exploits.