Tag: Sensor

Cooling System…

Even though I’ve not posted here so much, I have been busy with the car;

The complex cooling system – the myriad of pipes and hoses was never a pleasing sight under the bonnet.

My answer to this was to get hold of a RetroFord water rail and simplify the system.

The job was simple really, the old parts came off easily, including the thermostat housing, then the new parts built up and fitted with ease.

The only slightly tricky area is where an outlet from the new housing passes through the coil pack mounting – to be sure of no contact, the coil mount was loosened and lifted about 1-2mm then re-tightened. This gave JUST enough space to pass a hose for the header tank.

The sensors supplied with the rail fitted perfectly and allowed me to switch back to an automatic cooling fan – which when tested worked so well.

While apart I took the opportunity to fit a new water pump, this was a breeze, but I did find that the threads in the water pump housing are not very good so was careful in tightening.

I have one of these housings, but its a pretty ‘deep’ part on the front of the engine and best suited to ‘winter upgrade’ or leave it alone its not leaking’.

Update: I have since drilled 3 little holes in the thermostat – it prevents air-locking and allows a little bypass.

Ignition – Done!

So, we are there, Nodiz is now controlling the ignition system on my car.

And here’s how;

Installing the Advance Table

I decided that before any major stuff begins, I should connect to the Nodiz module via Bluetooth and set it up.

Using my Apple MacBook – running Windows 10 in a VM (VMWare Fusion)  it was initially a bit of a struggle getting the onboard Bluetooth radio to work through Win10. I ended up disabling Bluetooth, and using the plug-in USB dongle that is kindly provided with the Nodiz passing it straight through to Windows via VMWare.

After connecting the unit to the battery, I was able to communicate using the software from Motorsport Electronics. I loaded the advance table from their forums, then told the ECU that engine load information will be provided by a Cosworth 3-bar MAP sensor rather than Throttle Position Sensor. It all seemed happy the Advance Table was written to the onboard memory.

Matt from Nodiz explains this HERE.

With this job done, the time had come to get on with the real work.

Removing Megajolt/EDIS

This part was simple, 4 self-tapping screws had been used held these units to the scuttle panel (2 in each) and the wiring harness only linked into the car in 3 places (ignition live feed, ground (earth), and tacho) then 2 terminated plugs went to the coil pack and crank position sensor.

Engine bay with Megajolt

Units removed from scuttle
New Nodiz with MAP sensor (left) and Old MegaJolt with EDIS (right)
Installing Nodiz
I offered up the new wiring harness and decided where to place the new components, the Nodiz is secured with Velcro tape so can go anywhere, but the MAP sensor is a bolt on part, I used the self-tapping bolts that used to retain the Megajolt/EDIS to mount the sensor on the scuttle panel. The new cabling was then connected to the car harness in the same points as the Megajolt (live, ground, tacho).
I turned the key and the car started 1st time – wonderful.
,
A much more elegant solution
Although the car ran very well, the tacho (rev counter) wasn’t working. After a lot of looking around forums etc. about this issue, I boiled it down to 3 options; 
  1. Fit a ‘pull-up’ resistor to the connections at the back of the gauge
  2. Fit a diode coil driver pack to the ignition coils and use that to drive the tacho
  3. Do both 1 and 2

I ordered both parts online and got around to making the tacho work this weekend – removing the VDO tacho I soldered a 1 ohm resistor between the 12v feed and the RPM signal wires (pins 2 and 4).

Resistor in place
I started the car, and, to my surprise it worked perfectly. In summary; The engine now runs very cleanly and pulls very hard – with a working rev-counter.
I’m Delighted..,

Speedo (Again) …

So,

I now have a fully functioning speedometer.

I ordered the new sensor from ETB.

Here’s a photo comparing the old with the new.

The new item comes with about 2m or cable, which is pretty much perfect for running it to the VDO speedometer from the Right-Front wheel.
It comes with 3 connectors, which are marked from ETB, as to where they go on the back of the gauge.
    • BROWN  – Pin 4
    • BLACK  – Pin 8
    • BLUE   – Pin 3

It was very simple, you can basically squish the pin that comes on the wire directly into the standard Westfield spade terminal. Ensuring that the old sensor was now gone and that the terminals to it were securely hidden in the transmission tunnel allowed the wiring for the sensor to be used to hold the new in place.
I then drilled out an 8mm hole in the front hub to secure the sensor.
Rare earth magnets were attached to 2 of the wheel studs with Araldite to close the gap to, and trigger the sensor. The great thing about using such strong magnets is that they hold themselves in place while the epoxy cures.
To allow for the new sensor location the speedometer had to be recoded – It was a simple task to set the device to read that 1820 pulses = 1 mile. It works perfectly. To be honest I’m so pleased.
Coming soon…
Water Pump and Header Tank
Additional fuse box and wiring

Speedo Sensor…

On my Westfield the type of speedo fitted is a VDO electronic, the sensor for which is located under the centre of the car aimed at the spinning universal joint when driving.

With the sensor in this position, spirited driving along bumpy roads can cause the universal joint to strike the sensor. This has happened 3 times since getting the car in April, somewhat aided by the super floppy rear suspension.
Looking at the chewed up state of the sensor (below) coupled with the fact that is has now given up. I am going to replace it with a smaller one from ETB that picks up on the front wheel hub. I’ll let you know how this goes.