Tag: Westfield

Speedo (Again) …

So,

I now have a fully functioning speedometer.

I ordered the new sensor from ETB.

Here’s a photo comparing the old with the new.

The new item comes with about 2m or cable, which is pretty much perfect for running it to the VDO speedometer from the Right-Front wheel.
It comes with 3 connectors, which are marked from ETB, as to where they go on the back of the gauge.
    • BROWN  – Pin 4
    • BLACK  – Pin 8
    • BLUE   – Pin 3

It was very simple, you can basically squish the pin that comes on the wire directly into the standard Westfield spade terminal. Ensuring that the old sensor was now gone and that the terminals to it were securely hidden in the transmission tunnel allowed the wiring for the sensor to be used to hold the new in place.
I then drilled out an 8mm hole in the front hub to secure the sensor.
Rare earth magnets were attached to 2 of the wheel studs with Araldite to close the gap to, and trigger the sensor. The great thing about using such strong magnets is that they hold themselves in place while the epoxy cures.
To allow for the new sensor location the speedometer had to be recoded – It was a simple task to set the device to read that 1820 pulses = 1 mile. It works perfectly. To be honest I’m so pleased.
Coming soon…
Water Pump and Header Tank
Additional fuse box and wiring

Front Dampers…

Finally it’s time to have a go at the front dampers.

This surely would be simpler that the rear ones, because they are right there visible and the bolts are well within the hittable with a hammer range if seized.

It all went pretty well, I found the same spring compression problem as I had with at the rear – this took less time however, because I have gained the knack to doing it now.  When fitting the dampers into the brackets on the chassis it was quite a struggle to line up both ends and get a bolt in – I did it using a tapered punch pushed into the bolt hole from either side and a bit of patience.

That said, its all done, and the car feels so much better to drive.

Its apparent that with the new properly working suspension, the car can be run a lot lower.
The Westfield build manual states 170-175mm Rear and 160mm Front.
I know from looking around on Forums etc though that the more sporty fellas set theirs much lower, often 160mm Rear and 146mm Front.
That puts your bum 6 inches from the ground.
I’m going to set the ride height soon and let you know how it goes.

Speedo Sensor…

On my Westfield the type of speedo fitted is a VDO electronic, the sensor for which is located under the centre of the car aimed at the spinning universal joint when driving.

With the sensor in this position, spirited driving along bumpy roads can cause the universal joint to strike the sensor. This has happened 3 times since getting the car in April, somewhat aided by the super floppy rear suspension.
Looking at the chewed up state of the sensor (below) coupled with the fact that is has now given up. I am going to replace it with a smaller one from ETB that picks up on the front wheel hub. I’ll let you know how this goes.

Alternator Revisted…

So, recently the Alternator warning light had been flickering a bit.

This weekend, it just stayed on… Bugger.

Bearing in mind the alternator was pretty new, I started my diagnosis elsewhere.

I followed the wiring around a bit, and deduced that it ran through one of the 2 fuse boxes, noticing that looking straight down onto the fuses that some of the contacts onto the fuses were sitting lower in the plastic housing that others.

Upon removing the 3 fuses to which this had happened, I found that the captive contacts (or terminals) had slid down. By poking from below, they were soon back in place, and the fuses re-fitted.

This fixed the problem a treat.

While the nosecone was off for another job, I grabbed a photo of the Alternator installation.

Rear Dampers…

I have now fitted the new rear dampers.

Initially I thought that this would be such a simple task…
Wrong…
Upon inspection the top mounting bolt for the NSR damper was seized into the bush.
Also access to this bolt, to hit it with a hammer; is very restricted.
I noticed that a previous owner has had a go at removing it, as one of the chassis gusset plates was bent – as if it had been used to lever a pry-bar against.
So here’s what I did;
I used a Dremel to cut through the damper case where the bush is held, then I prised off the old damper from the bush (came off quite simply actually).
This revealed the bush and bold and the chassis bracket.
To handle this either side of the bush was cut through with a very thin cutting wheel on my angle grinder (got these cutting discs from Wickes).
I then painted the area in Hammerite (where the powder coating had flaked off).
Here’s the one photo that took at the time – new vs old. When I operated the old ones with my hands what was left of the oil squirted out past the seals – nice.
Getting the springs onto the new dampers was a bit of a pain, even the smallest car spring compressors that i could find and still only half fitted. So it took a few goes. I have since learnt that the trick is to get hold of some motorcycle spring compressors.
So onto the front ones next time – fingers crossed for a simple process.

Alternator Part 2…

So, I got the new alternator kit from KitSpares.

The brackets are beautifully made and powder coated.

Everything needed is in the kit; bolts, nuts, washers the lot.

You do have to get your wiring sorted to mate with it, but that’s a simple task of adding ring terminals for the thicker B+ wires, and spade connectors for the ignition live and warning light wires.

On the Right below you can see the old alternator (Huge) and, on the left, the new one (Tiny);

The operation is very simple, but I would recommend removal of the nosecone and inlet manifold.
I additionally added an earth strap of my own between one of the inlet manifold bolts and the threaded alternator mounting hole. This was suggested on the Westfield Forums as the awesome powder coating on the brackets may insulate the alternator and prevent a good earth connection.
The alternator in the kit did arrive faulty (it only provided charge occasionally) but after a call to the very helpful guys at Great British Sports Cars. I drove over there and collected a new one. I got a very impressive tour of the factory thrown in too. I really do think that my next car might be a GBS Zero.

Alternator…

When fitting the new engine, we noticed that the alternator has quite a bit of movement – even when bolted in as tight as possible. Its seems to be because slot has been cut into the standard alloy (Mondeo or Focus) Alternator mount to allow quick removal/reinstallation.

When re-assembling it at engine time, a piece of rubber hose was used to sleeve the bolt and minimize the movement, but its not really good enough.

When driving the car at the weekend, the belt seemed to get caught across the pulley and lock it, causing a squeal.

To remedy this I’ve ordered a neat looking alternator kit from Kit Spares. I’ll drop an update here over the next week letting you know how it goes.

Headlights, Dampers and Mapping…

I took a drive out the other evening,

a) It gave me a chance to use the Half-hood – which worked a treat. It does however ‘bellow’ up when driving a higher speeds. I think that after this I should be able to tighten it down further.

b)  got to film my trip using an SJ4000 (cheap GoPro knock off). I sampled it down to 720p using handbrake, then performed and edit with iMovie, see below;

c) A stone popped up and hit my headlamp and smashed it. So on Friday, I received my nice new Dominator style lights from Furore Products. Fitted them on Saturday, proved pretty simple, but I’m not fully happy with the fact that the mounting hole had been drilled pretty big, so I’m going to make a little adaption plate/washer device at the weekend. So far though, I love them and think they look great. I’ll post pictures of the little brackets after I’ve made them.

Dampers
I have for a while been thinking that there was something a bit off with the suspension, predominately at the rear. I have now narrowed this down to the 15-year-old SPAX dampers. Whether at setting 1 or setting 12 the rear end still crashes and bounces about.
My remedy to this is to order a set of alloy bodied Protech Dampers from Westfield. I’m hoping to have these for next weekend so that I can get them on.
Ignition Map
The car feels so so so much better when driving, but there still is a bit of spluttering and holding back at WOT when using low/mid revs. So also at the weekend, I’m going to try a few more maps, built with consideration as to how well the car feels now at cruise / mid throttle.

We Got There – A Long Post…

Hi Again

Well, the engine is in;

it was a pretty simple process, which we (my son and I) could have done in a day!

Instead, it took 3 Days.

Day 1

Removed the old engine, cleaned up some rusty looking areas of chassis in the engine bay and painted them with Kurust and Hammerite.

Day 2

Cleaned and painted the left-hand engine mount for the same reason, checked and re-worked some of the alternator wiring – many because all of the wire going there was yellow and had baffled me.

Collected the Race Sump from Dunnell and fitted it to the new engine. I wish I’d taken a few photos of it. The alloy welding is masterful.

They provide 4 new main bearing bolts with studs attached to retain the (also included) new windage tray. The modified oil pickup pipe fits perfectly too.

The (almost new looking) clutch was removed from the old engine and fitted to the new along with a new spigot/pilot bearing.

Day 3

The new engine went in just fine took around 4 hours. and when filled with some lovely Castrol maganatec and fresh coolant (surprisingly) it started first time – thumbs up.

My son and I took the car for a short spin after checking for leaks etc, and it coughed and spluttered like crazy when pushed a bit, but run like a dream at part throttle.

Since then I have spent a few days learning about what may be the cause;
My feelings were that with the old engine it had an air leak central and that the carbs had been fiddled with to get the engine to run ok-ish with an air leak.
or
That the for some reason the ignition timing set in the Megajolt system had been fiddled with to get the old air leaky engine to run ok-ish.
I wasn’t so confident about stripping the ZX9R Carburettors, so I read a lot of forum posts and articles about ignition mapping and thought i’d check that out.
The map that was loaded to the car looked like one for a Turbo engine as the MAP sensor pressure load scale went to 220Kpa. I got the standard Zetec base map that is provided by Autosport Labs, and committed it to the car. The engine ran far better, but still popped through the carbs and was misfiring at high RPM.
So,
I read even more articles and forum posts about ignition maps and found a new map on a USA 7s forum. The guy mentioned that it was for a std Zetec on carbs and that he had spent ages honing it to its current state.
I took this map and adapted it into the Megajolt 10×10 grid (along with 3 others I found online).
Tonight I loaded this map, it was the 2nd one that i tried and, wow what a difference, you can drive the car around town on low throttle and in a cruise and it works beautifully.
Also it goes like a steam train at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). But I still cannot just jump onto the throttle, if I do, from low revs the engine can still cough an hesitate a little.
Here’s how i drove about:
Anyway all is well, i’ll be back soon with more Westfield exploits.

Its Nearly Time…

I mailed the guy at Dunnell Race Engines today,

He says my sump will be ready on Tuesday.

Today I fitted the thermostat housing from the old engine onto the new it was simple all I needed was a new seal ring.

I also snapped a cam cover bolt while tightening, It came out easily, I then threw them all away, luckily I had a spare set to go with. All have been replaced.

The wiring on the car that goes to the temp sensor at the top of the thermostat housing went nowhere so I’ve now removed it from the loom.

Also, there was a hose to nowhere on the inlet manifold (probably for a car with a brake servo) this I removed entirely and fitted a blanking plug.

We are going to get the car around from the garage – with a rope (like 1/4 mile) oSundayay then the real fun begins.