Tag: ZX9R

Ignition – Done!

So, we are there, Nodiz is now controlling the ignition system on my car.

And here’s how;

Installing the Advance Table

I decided that before any major stuff begins, I should connect to the Nodiz module via Bluetooth and set it up.

Using my Apple MacBook – running Windows 10 in a VM (VMWare Fusion)  it was initially a bit of a struggle getting the onboard Bluetooth radio to work through Win10. I ended up disabling Bluetooth, and using the plug-in USB dongle that is kindly provided with the Nodiz passing it straight through to Windows via VMWare.

After connecting the unit to the battery, I was able to communicate using the software from Motorsport Electronics. I loaded the advance table from their forums, then told the ECU that engine load information will be provided by a Cosworth 3-bar MAP sensor rather than Throttle Position Sensor. It all seemed happy the Advance Table was written to the onboard memory.

Matt from Nodiz explains this HERE.

With this job done, the time had come to get on with the real work.

Removing Megajolt/EDIS

This part was simple, 4 self-tapping screws had been used held these units to the scuttle panel (2 in each) and the wiring harness only linked into the car in 3 places (ignition live feed, ground (earth), and tacho) then 2 terminated plugs went to the coil pack and crank position sensor.

Engine bay with Megajolt

Units removed from scuttle
New Nodiz with MAP sensor (left) and Old MegaJolt with EDIS (right)
Installing Nodiz
I offered up the new wiring harness and decided where to place the new components, the Nodiz is secured with Velcro tape so can go anywhere, but the MAP sensor is a bolt on part, I used the self-tapping bolts that used to retain the Megajolt/EDIS to mount the sensor on the scuttle panel. The new cabling was then connected to the car harness in the same points as the Megajolt (live, ground, tacho).
I turned the key and the car started 1st time – wonderful.
,
A much more elegant solution
Although the car ran very well, the tacho (rev counter) wasn’t working. After a lot of looking around forums etc. about this issue, I boiled it down to 3 options; 
  1. Fit a ‘pull-up’ resistor to the connections at the back of the gauge
  2. Fit a diode coil driver pack to the ignition coils and use that to drive the tacho
  3. Do both 1 and 2

I ordered both parts online and got around to making the tacho work this weekend – removing the VDO tacho I soldered a 1 ohm resistor between the 12v feed and the RPM signal wires (pins 2 and 4).

Resistor in place
I started the car, and, to my surprise it worked perfectly. In summary; The engine now runs very cleanly and pulls very hard – with a working rev-counter.
I’m Delighted..,

Carburettor Rebuild…

So,

I decided that it might improve the WOT(Wide Open Throttle) running by giving the ZX9R B carbs a rebuild.

As a bit of a grounding I watched this fellas videos on  You Tube.

Here’s what I found during the rebuild process.

The inlet manifold take-off pipes for the Megajolt MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor were a bit loose – one was off completely – I pushed them all on tightly.

The float heights in the carbs were not even – they should all be 14mm, only 1 was – I reset them by bending the little tags on the float.

I increased the jet size to 1.6mm as per many recommendations. To richen the mid throttle range I raised the needles by adding a washer below each needle stop.

a few little back bits were found knocking about near the jets and needle valves – maybe plastic or hard rubber, i cleared these out.

After a clean up and rebuild – refit – I put them on the car and started it, but fuel came out of every orifice (even the venturi).

Stripping them once more drove me to replace the float needles and seats – reading through some forums I heard that the varnish in worn carbs keeps these things sealing, and that after cleaning this off – if they are worn troubles can arise.

I also replaced the float bowl rubber gaskets to ensure good sealing.

They looked glorious;

2nd Try – the carbs went back in quickly and the car started 1st time, alas though they still leaked fuel – from the overflow pipes – I remedied this by dropping the fuel pressure through the Filter King to around 2psi – at 3 psi the fuel must have been pushing the float valves open.

I found at part to  mid throttle the car is feels like it has more torque and the exhaust note is wetter – this I think is due to raising the needles.

It was still unhappy at WOT though – so maybe going for different main jets once more is the key.

I’m looking forward to balancing them and giving the car a good test in some dry weather to get an opinion.

Speedo (Again) …

So,

I now have a fully functioning speedometer.

I ordered the new sensor from ETB.

Here’s a photo comparing the old with the new.

The new item comes with about 2m or cable, which is pretty much perfect for running it to the VDO speedometer from the Right-Front wheel.
It comes with 3 connectors, which are marked from ETB, as to where they go on the back of the gauge.
    • BROWN  – Pin 4
    • BLACK  – Pin 8
    • BLUE   – Pin 3

It was very simple, you can basically squish the pin that comes on the wire directly into the standard Westfield spade terminal. Ensuring that the old sensor was now gone and that the terminals to it were securely hidden in the transmission tunnel allowed the wiring for the sensor to be used to hold the new in place.
I then drilled out an 8mm hole in the front hub to secure the sensor.
Rare earth magnets were attached to 2 of the wheel studs with Araldite to close the gap to, and trigger the sensor. The great thing about using such strong magnets is that they hold themselves in place while the epoxy cures.
To allow for the new sensor location the speedometer had to be recoded – It was a simple task to set the device to read that 1820 pulses = 1 mile. It works perfectly. To be honest I’m so pleased.
Coming soon…
Water Pump and Header Tank
Additional fuse box and wiring

Front Dampers…

Finally it’s time to have a go at the front dampers.

This surely would be simpler that the rear ones, because they are right there visible and the bolts are well within the hittable with a hammer range if seized.

It all went pretty well, I found the same spring compression problem as I had with at the rear – this took less time however, because I have gained the knack to doing it now.  When fitting the dampers into the brackets on the chassis it was quite a struggle to line up both ends and get a bolt in – I did it using a tapered punch pushed into the bolt hole from either side and a bit of patience.

That said, its all done, and the car feels so much better to drive.

Its apparent that with the new properly working suspension, the car can be run a lot lower.
The Westfield build manual states 170-175mm Rear and 160mm Front.
I know from looking around on Forums etc though that the more sporty fellas set theirs much lower, often 160mm Rear and 146mm Front.
That puts your bum 6 inches from the ground.
I’m going to set the ride height soon and let you know how it goes.

We Got There – A Long Post…

Hi Again

Well, the engine is in;

it was a pretty simple process, which we (my son and I) could have done in a day!

Instead, it took 3 Days.

Day 1

Removed the old engine, cleaned up some rusty looking areas of chassis in the engine bay and painted them with Kurust and Hammerite.

Day 2

Cleaned and painted the left-hand engine mount for the same reason, checked and re-worked some of the alternator wiring – many because all of the wire going there was yellow and had baffled me.

Collected the Race Sump from Dunnell and fitted it to the new engine. I wish I’d taken a few photos of it. The alloy welding is masterful.

They provide 4 new main bearing bolts with studs attached to retain the (also included) new windage tray. The modified oil pickup pipe fits perfectly too.

The (almost new looking) clutch was removed from the old engine and fitted to the new along with a new spigot/pilot bearing.

Day 3

The new engine went in just fine took around 4 hours. and when filled with some lovely Castrol maganatec and fresh coolant (surprisingly) it started first time – thumbs up.

My son and I took the car for a short spin after checking for leaks etc, and it coughed and spluttered like crazy when pushed a bit, but run like a dream at part throttle.

Since then I have spent a few days learning about what may be the cause;
My feelings were that with the old engine it had an air leak central and that the carbs had been fiddled with to get the engine to run ok-ish with an air leak.
or
That the for some reason the ignition timing set in the Megajolt system had been fiddled with to get the old air leaky engine to run ok-ish.
I wasn’t so confident about stripping the ZX9R Carburettors, so I read a lot of forum posts and articles about ignition mapping and thought i’d check that out.
The map that was loaded to the car looked like one for a Turbo engine as the MAP sensor pressure load scale went to 220Kpa. I got the standard Zetec base map that is provided by Autosport Labs, and committed it to the car. The engine ran far better, but still popped through the carbs and was misfiring at high RPM.
So,
I read even more articles and forum posts about ignition maps and found a new map on a USA 7s forum. The guy mentioned that it was for a std Zetec on carbs and that he had spent ages honing it to its current state.
I took this map and adapted it into the Megajolt 10×10 grid (along with 3 others I found online).
Tonight I loaded this map, it was the 2nd one that i tried and, wow what a difference, you can drive the car around town on low throttle and in a cruise and it works beautifully.
Also it goes like a steam train at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). But I still cannot just jump onto the throttle, if I do, from low revs the engine can still cough an hesitate a little.
Here’s how i drove about:
Anyway all is well, i’ll be back soon with more Westfield exploits.

Its Nearly Time…

I mailed the guy at Dunnell Race Engines today,

He says my sump will be ready on Tuesday.

Today I fitted the thermostat housing from the old engine onto the new it was simple all I needed was a new seal ring.

I also snapped a cam cover bolt while tightening, It came out easily, I then threw them all away, luckily I had a spare set to go with. All have been replaced.

The wiring on the car that goes to the temp sensor at the top of the thermostat housing went nowhere so I’ve now removed it from the loom.

Also, there was a hose to nowhere on the inlet manifold (probably for a car with a brake servo) this I removed entirely and fitted a blanking plug.

We are going to get the car around from the garage – with a rope (like 1/4 mile) oSundayay then the real fun begins.

It Begins…

Hi, Welcome to my blog,

I’m intending to record my experiences with my Westfield sports car.

I got the car on my 45th birthday 3rd April 2014.

Its great fun to drive, with superb acceleration.

It is an SEW model meaning that it had a [W]idebody but unlike the more modern (SEIW) it did not have [I]ndependent suspension. Instead, it uses a for Escort style live axle modified with trailing arms and a Panhard rod.

It has a Ford Zetec 2.0 16v engine with ZX9r carburettors, MegaJolt electronic Ignition and a Ford Type 9 gearbox (5 speed)

Here’s how it looked in the Pistonheads Ad;

Since then I have made some minor changes;
Re-wired the cooling fan circuit to be on a dash switch (for now) – ongoing.
Replaced the radiator grille to improve cooling airflow.
Replaced some of the standard trims (tread plates and floor chassis covers) with carbonmods items.
Replaced the speedo – it did not show the mileage and I needed this to meet an insurance condition.
Removed a lot of stickers.
Removed the wheel centre caps.
Replaced the fire extinguisher.
Fitted a softbits half-hood.
Also, I noticed some things that I need to work on.
The dampers are shot (rear especially).
There was a small oil leak at the front right of the engine.
I wanted the cooling fan to be semi-automatic.
The reverse lights don’t work.
More to come soon…